Inspiration: An American in Paris by way of Africa. If it sounds a little YSL aside from the American part perhaps. There was that heart motif on dresses, purses and rings. But Roy made it her own, and adorable, at that. The same went for the pajamalike silk blazers, easy pants and jumpsuits, all of which worked Roys idea of effortless elegance. Its a concept thats often easier said than done, but Roy got it right. Even the most complicated looks a hand-painted tribal print on a poufed, asymmetric dress or embroidered bustier seemed doable. According to Roy, Its just as easy to look great in a silk jersey as it is in a corset.
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Working out of Brooklyns Gowanus neighborhood may have toughened up Vena Cavas Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock: Their signature pretty silk dresses got some serious hardware for spring. A fluid yellow dress, for instance, had metal triangles running up the straps and center, while a stunning floor-length cream silk skirt, with subtle kick pleats, was played off against a gray T-shirt and shrunken black leather vest. A collaboration with Via Spiga yielded sexy stacked heels glinting with silver buckles, which worked well with the edgier fare, such as a black mesh T-shirt paired with a rich orange long skirt suited for club-hopping. The designers, who each season get a bit more adventurous, not to mention adept with their draping, seemed to be offering urban princess-warrior clothes for their usually delicate fans.
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Add Note The strength of Australian designer Toni Maticevskis lineup was in his romantic, delicate silk dresses, but tangents like metallic striping and liquid-look materials weighed down the collection.
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It may be a diffusion collection, but Vivienne Westwood Red Label must be a red-hot seller if the gargantuan venue she chose to show her latest collection is anything to go by. The show took place at Earls Court Exhibition Centre, the same locale where Giorgio Armani staged his grand-scale One Night Only show and party exactly two years ago. On Thursday night, the doyenne of British fashion sent a troop of Bedouin-style babes down a slick black runway against a backdrop of a rising red sun. Westwood incorporated elements of mens tailoring in light wool fabrics into the collection, alongside fresh shirtdresses in stripped or checked cotton, some with Arabian hoods. Gold lamé was worked into cropped biker jackets and harem pants, while shiny metallic stretch fabric made for slinky fitted dresses. Prints reminiscent of Kilim carpets appeared in knitwear. All in all, the collection was easy and wearable.
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This was Lagerfeld at his savvy best, on one hand lavishing the clothes with ample decoration as if heralding that tough times aside, his ladies have nothing to worry about, while on the other hand celebrating the dressed-up end of his Chanel range, no kooky kid stuff to confuse those ladies should they start to feel skittish. And he still infused the lineup with youthful charm, pinned largely on liberal doses of pink. Suits came in every conceivable variation: with jackets long and lean, full and swingy or cropped into tiny boleros. Dresses ranged from a classic shift to short, saucy knit numbers, and Lagerfeld gave a nod or two to the sportswear set with racy black pants looks. As for the tweeds du jour, they came both traditional and delightfully twisted, the latter in delicate woven tulle ribbon and squiggled with rubber. Evening arrived on a cloud of hazy blue chiffon here, a bower of silvery pink camellias there.
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How appropriate for Gossip Girls Leighton Meester to be sitting front row at Jason Wu as the young designer turned out a collection of polished, ladylike looks inspired by a business trip to Japan, where he fell in love with the energy of Tokyo. It came through in saturated color, from a delicate fuchsia knit T to a rainbow of frocks. Known for his eveningwear, Wu did not disappoint, with an array of beautiful, easy gowns that were young and fresh, and sexy sheath dresses with French knots created by hand. Moving his collection forward, Wu ventured into sportswear with cashmere knits, unstructured jackets and shorts all rendered with his sophisticated hand.
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The designer wowed her audience by tossing aside any niche notion of what Lela Rose is all about. She has eclipsed her rather prim party clothes with what one might call quirky sportswear. Dressed-up sporty? Certainly. And still hip enough to be perfect for those young ladies who lunch in the Meatpacking District. They would love her effortless mixes: thigh-high organza peplum skirts with offbeat printed tanks; perfectly cut cotton tweed shorts with a silk faille track jacket. The designers slightly hippie edge think ikat, dip-dyeing and beads, all polished to a high shine of sophistication makes this her best collection ever. The ease is evident, too, in her latest flirty signature dresses, among them the patch-embroidered cotton, drop-waist tank version and abstract plaid T-shirt shapes, which all reflect Roses newfound freedom.
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