Creative director Massimiliano Giornetti infused the house’s classics with an understated nautical theme.
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Inspiration: An American in Paris by way of Africa. If it sounds a little YSL aside from the American part perhaps. There was that heart motif on dresses, purses and rings. But Roy made it her own, and adorable, at that. The same went for the pajamalike silk blazers, easy pants and jumpsuits, all of which worked Roys idea of effortless elegance. Its a concept thats often easier said than done, but Roy got it right. Even the most complicated looks a hand-painted tribal print on a poufed, asymmetric dress or embroidered bustier seemed doable. According to Roy, Its just as easy to look great in a silk jersey as it is in a corset.
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Nicole Millers affinity for far-off places is well-known by now. A different locale inspires just about every season, some more successfully than others. For spring, it was Haiti and its voodoo culture. She channeled the islands spirit in colorful sequins, beadwork and prints, which worked well on asymmetric dresses and skirts the less complicated the better. Even Millers most literal use of the Haitian motif, on a beaded voodoo doll print dress, had a certain charm. Still, for all of her fancy pattern play, the tailored sportswear, a striped boyfriend blazer paired with harem pants in particular, was the most spellbinding.
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Comeys real strength is her prints and patterns: Designed in-house, this seasons are both whimsical (like the waxing-moon motif) and versatile (the checked jacquard pieces).
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Charlotte Ronson is proving to be a designer who knows her youthful following, this time with a series of sweet, frilly dresses mixed with great sportswear, particularly a light zipped cardigan and mini.
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It may be a diffusion collection, but Vivienne Westwood Red Label must be a red-hot seller if the gargantuan venue she chose to show her latest collection is anything to go by. The show took place at Earls Court Exhibition Centre, the same locale where Giorgio Armani staged his grand-scale One Night Only show and party exactly two years ago. On Thursday night, the doyenne of British fashion sent a troop of Bedouin-style babes down a slick black runway against a backdrop of a rising red sun. Westwood incorporated elements of mens tailoring in light wool fabrics into the collection, alongside fresh shirtdresses in stripped or checked cotton, some with Arabian hoods. Gold lamé was worked into cropped biker jackets and harem pants, while shiny metallic stretch fabric made for slinky fitted dresses. Prints reminiscent of Kilim carpets appeared in knitwear. All in all, the collection was easy and wearable.
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Add Note Yigal Azrouël likes things just so, but definitely not prim. In fact, he is a perfectionist when it comes to making his clothes not too perfect. I want them to look like they have experience, he said during a studio visit this week. Like [they] got kind of damaged. I think it makes [them] look cooler. To wit, his spring collection was full of the rumpled, nonchalant clothes leather jackets, silk cocktail dresses and slouchy pants in a dusty palette and washed fabrics for the worn-in look his clientele craves. Here, batik prints and sarong skirts worked the bohemian side of Azrouëls downtown ethos. As always, his signature jerseys will have broad appeal, but there were some awkward moments in drab sack dresses and tricky high-waisted pants. While that might tickle the extremely hip, it will likely leave those who dont get it feeling hopelessly uncool.
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