This was Lagerfeld at his savvy best, on one hand lavishing the clothes with ample decoration as if heralding that tough times aside, his ladies have nothing to worry about, while on the other hand celebrating the dressed-up end of his Chanel range, no kooky kid stuff to confuse those ladies should they start to feel skittish. And he still infused the lineup with youthful charm, pinned largely on liberal doses of pink. Suits came in every conceivable variation: with jackets long and lean, full and swingy or cropped into tiny boleros. Dresses ranged from a classic shift to short, saucy knit numbers, and Lagerfeld gave a nod or two to the sportswear set with racy black pants looks. As for the tweeds du jour, they came both traditional and delightfully twisted, the latter in delicate woven tulle ribbon and squiggled with rubber. Evening arrived on a cloud of hazy blue chiffon here, a bower of silvery pink camellias there.
The Label: Started in 1856 by Thomas Burberry, the brand went from outfitting WWI officers (thanks to the invention of gabardine, a water-resistant material they patented) to Holly Golightly in 1961's Breakfast at Tiffany's. Burberry's signature pieces are the trench coat and the plaid (actually "check" if you're a Londoner). The Look: Clean lines, classic style, and traditional colors (offshoots of the red, black, beige, and white Burberry check). The clothes are striking in their simple beauty. The Designer: Christopher Bailey went from the Royal College of Art to spending a year at Donna Karan's studio in New York. Six years into designing the women's collection under Tom Ford at Gucci, he was hired to resuscitate Burberry. Since his arrival at the label, Burberry has earned a record $167 million in profits.