Galliano opened his most recent show with a white, boldly collared, full-skirted coat, cinched with a deep corset belt in high-contrast black patent, just to make the point, he said. Which is that this collection is all about construction, each look built on a body, a corseted foundation, some of which were partly visible under the undulations of inventive dégradé fabrics. The shapes: occasional hourglass sheaths countering the prevailing dresses and suits cut with that festive Fifties fit-and-flare, the skirts often in retro crin,
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