Next Big Thing: Sex And The City Isn't Real, People! (But Mottainai Is!)

When most people think of New York fashion, their brains spin out Sex and The City-esque romantic twinkly visions of Manhattan, Manolos, and Cosmos in a tipsy, teetering menage-a trois. People, that was so the 1990s (if ever). In 2008, the future of New York fashion (like the future of New York art, music - basically everything except - yawn - finance) is in Brooklyn. Which is where we found Mottainai.

Luke McCann, Timothy Schmidtke and Robert Lido formed the collective while students at the Fashion Institute of Technology. We talked to Luke about what's wrong with fashion, selling the line to Jeffrey and Bergdorf's, and their plans for a women's line. But before all that, we wanted to make sure we were saying their name right.

Stylehive: First, how do you pronounce "Mottainai"?
Mottainai: It can be difficult at first if you have never seen or heard the word, but it sounds like "moe-tie-nie." Think "gimme some mo!", "tie your shoe", and "the end is nigh"...mottainnai

Stylehive: Thank you. What does it mean?
Mottainai: In its most simple form it means "what a waste" and is used to when people squander natural resources like food for example. In Japan, parents often use the word to ensure a child eats all of their rice. The idea behind it took a lot of time, energy, and people to bring you that so you better use it. The Shinto based characters when written in Japanese can be broken down to read "material" and "waste", but that may be too deep for most.

Stylehive: Not for me - I'm quite deep. How and when did you get started?
Mottainai: After meeting my fellow Mottainai founders and current roommates Timothy Schmidtke and Robert Lindo at FIT while studying menswear, we all decided we would rather join forces and try to make it on our own rather than beinexploited and bird fed by a boring company after we graduate. We went on a rampage utilizing everything FIT/NYC has to offer. We really started the company in our 4th semester at FIT, as some of the pieces we have in production now we were developing as our "final project" for graduation. So you can say we conceptualized Mottainai in February 2007 and launched it as an LLC in January 2008.
Nice! What's the pervading theme in your fall 2008 line?

We like to balance utilitarian functions with tailored techniques. We said the theme for Fall is "Modern Museum." You can wear these clothes in the years to come and yet in a few decades maybe see them archived at a museum. There is a trace of understated modernity in our pieces, you can wear them around your grandparents and they will like them but so will your friends.

Stylehive: Grandparent-friendly - love it. What are your favorite materials to work with and why?
Mottainai: That is tough one. But after working so close with our favorite mill in Japan I have become, and never meant to be, a denim nerd. It is such a forgiving fabric that can be transformed like clay into almost anything. You can have it raw and thick, or soft blended with linen and cashmere. A lifestyle necessity, not only has it transformed the retail world but it seems to be a centerpiece for how we dress today. I remember when I was five all I ever wanted was a denim jacket after seeing the Karate Kid come out rocking one and getting the girl at the end!

Stylehive: Fashion needs more Ralph Macchio-inspired lines! Speaking of which, what's wrong with fashion today?
Mottainai: There are a lot of people to please before you get to the actual customers. Many buyers and "fashion gatekeepers" are not always willing to take a risk on a new brand. Lots of buyers loved our collection, but wanted to €œwait and see€� with the Collection before they made a commitment. We were so excited when important retailers like Jeffrey and Bergdorf Goodman (both are well-known for being visionaries and trend setters) ordered. Customers are taking more risks nowadays, and 9 times out of 10 they trust the store and what's in it to supply them with what is fresh. We understand that the economy and the state of retailing is an issue now, but all we are asking stores is to keep an open mind and give the new guy a chance!

It€™s also really hard to get your production done and in a quality way when you are small and the new brand. We got lucky€”most of our collection is made right here in Brooklyn, Queens and Manhattan, even though our materials come from all over the world€”Italy, Japan, etc. We are a brand for the international community. We get hits on our website from Belgium, Saudi Arabia, Japan, England, Brazil, everywhere!

Stylehive: How else does living and working in Brooklyn inform your line?
Mottainai: We live and operate in a former knitting factory in the Bushwick neighborhood of Brooklyn. Its very inspiring to us for its post-industrial feel was the basis of Mottainai. Our building is surrounded by old factories and warehouses that once were filled with hard working New Yorkers. Now they sit abandoned or filled with Santa Claus clocks, cheap toy guns, or even plastic furniture. I have counted 8 importers from China that use these building to store truckloads and truckloads of 99 cent store products that will be in American landfills in less than a year. We saw that and said we will go the opposite way. We don't want to make disposable clothing. Brooklyn itself is another world itself and I love it here, but we are definitely not married to it nor anyplace.

Stylehive: I used to live in a former knitting factory in Brooklyn, too! It was in South Williamsburg. I miss it. Anyway, describe the "Mottainai man."
Mottainai: The Mottainai man is a man who is tailored, self-confident without bragging, really well-dressed in a subtle way.

Stylehive: Any plans for a women's collection?
Mottainai: As a matter of fact another FIT graduate is in currently in charge of the women's capsule line set for Fall 09. She is amazingly talented, went to school with us, and is now working at well established, high-end women's brand.

Stylehive: What else is coming up for you guys?
Mottainai: We are wrapping up our first production run for Fall 08 deliveries and preparing the Spring collection ready to show in July. So, we will be officially in stores like Bergdorf Goodman, Jeffrey, and American Rag Cie this August!

Visit Mottaini's website to see their collection!